Planning a cruise with a port stop in Lisbon, Portugal? Here’s my travel guide that covers the best things to do, places to see, and where to eat in Lisbon.
Lisbon Portugal was one of my favorite cities that we ported in during our Transatlantic cruise. There was so much to see and do in the city (along with a ton of things to see if you take an excursion). We wanted to get a good feel of the city with a walking tour of three of the traditional neighborhoods in Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Chiado, Baixa, and Alfama. The three areas are close together and easily walkable during a day in port.
If you are arriving in Lisbon by cruise ship, you should find a free shuttle that will drop you off in the middle of the three neighborhoods. For reference, the drop off is near the Hard Rock Cafe. Take a look at the Obelisk at the center of the square that celebrates the restoration of Portuguese independence from Spain in 1640. Then carefully cross the busy street to start your walk at the Elevator da Gloria.
Note: Always take precautions against pickpockets in Lisbon especially in crowded areas and on public transportation. Wear a money belt, keep your purse zipped and in front of you at all times, and don’t put anything of value in your pockets.
Bairro Alto and Chiado
Chiado and Bairro Alto are Lisbon’s bohemian and alternative neighborhoods.
Hike up alongside the tracks of the funicular called Elevator da Gloria (0r ride if operating). Check out all the murals on your way up.
At the top, turn right and enter the park to take in the views over the city (Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara). You will be able to spot the twin towers of the cathedral (on far right), the ramparts of Sao Jorge Castle (on right) and the skyscrapers in the new city (far left). If you have time browse the vendors in the park, we found a beautiful painting of 28 line tram that came home with us.
Directly across from the funicular starts the old grid-plan streets of the Bairro Alto which is one of the most charming districts in Lisbon.
Take Travessa da Boa-Hora (directly across from the funicular) for two blocks before turning left on Rua da Atalaia. The beautifully colored and tiled buildings with wrought-iron balconies are just gorgeous! After three blocks turn left down Travessa da Queimada until you get to a busy street, where you will cross into the square, Largo Trindade Coelho.
At the square, you will find Sao Roque Church which is free to enter. The numbered panels on the ground once held tombs and the side chapel – Chapel of St. John the Baptist (left of the alter) is from the Vatican – it was used for one papal Mass before being shipped to Lisbon.
You will also find rather nice underground WCs in the square.
Leave the square and walk downhill along Rua Nova da Trinidad until you see a sign that points left to the ruined Convento do Carmo. Follow the signs to Largo do Carmo (a square) that is decorated with an old fountain and jacaranda trees from South America (purple blossoms in June).
In the square, you will find Convento do Carmo. The convent was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The Gothic arches of the church are still standing as a reminder of the event. You can pay to enter the convent.
Take the street to the right side of the convent (when facing it) and head up the stairs next to Bella Lisa Elevator restaurant to reach the Elevador de Santa Justa. In 1902, an architect who had studied under Gustav Eiffel completed this 150-foot tall iron elevator. You can purchase a ticket to climb the spiral stair to the top-floor lookout or to take the elevator up.
When you are finished at the elevator, retrace your steps back to the square in front of the convent. Take Travessa do Carmo out of the square for a block before turning left on Rua Serpa Pinto. Then turn left on Rua Garrett. When you reach the square of Praca Luis de Camoes stay to the right and where the square and street (Rua do Loreto) meet at #2 is Manteigaria (on the right). This is the best spot for a pastel de nata (custard tart) and their coffee is amazing too! Go down the narrow hall past the register to see the pastry makers in action.
When you are finished, go left on Rua Garrett. As you walk down the street notice the mosaic sidewalks and wrought-iron balconies. On Rua Garrett is Livraria Bertrand which is the world’s oldest bookstore still in operation.
Rua Garrett dead ends at the entrance of the Armazens do Chiado (a mall). If you are looking for Italian style gelato, try Santini em Casa a few steps downhill to the left as you face the mall and on the left side of Rua do Carmo.
This section of the walk is over. To start the Baixa walk continue down Rua do Carmo until you arrive at Praca do Rossio.
Baixa
Start the Baixa walk at the Praca do Rossio (square) where historians believe it was a Roman racetrack 2,000 years ago. The square is beautiful with two fountains and a statue in between. If the trees are blooming it’s magical!
Walk to the far right corner of the square and continue straight out of the square and into Largo de Sao Domingos where a stone monument is to remember the Jewish massacre of 1506. The city’s 16th-century slave market also took place here.
On Rua Dom Antao de Almada, you will find the Church of Sao Domingos (you can go inside).
Continue down Rua Dom Antao de Almada to Praca da Figueira, another square. Directly across on the other side of the square is Confeitaria Nacional, a very charming sweet shop/bakery.
Head out of the square on Rua da Prata and walk three blocks to Igreja de Sao Nicolau. Here you will notice that the facade that faces the square is the typical church facade, however, the side that faces the street is covered in tiles.
Walk two blocks down Rua da Vitoria to your left as you exit the church. Then turn left onto Rua de Augusta. Take this street all the way down to Lisbon’s waterfront. Go through the big arch – Arch of Triumph to Praca do Comercio (Commerce Square). In the center of the square is a statue of King Jose I.
Use the crosswalk at the bottom of the square for a look at the waterfront; you can head down to the sand if you wish.
Alfama
Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon and lies beneath the walls of the Sao Jorge Castle.
To begin the walk start at Sao Jorge Castle by arriving via taxi or by taking two free elevator rides up from the Baixa neighborhood. To find the elevators head down Rua de Augusta four blocks to Rua da Vitoria and turn right. The street will dead end at Rua dos Fanqueiros. Cross the street and go through the easy to miss door at #178 with faint white letters “elevador castelo” on the red rooftop. Ride to the top floor and exit the building.
Angle left across the street and through a little square. When you leave the square turn right and go up Largo Chao do Loureiro, where you’ll see the second elevator “elevador castelo”. Here you will find a supermarket with WC at the bottom. Either elevator will take you to the top. When exiting the elevator follow the brown Castelo de S. Jorge signs up to the castle – about an 8 minute walk.
Walk inside the gate to the castle where you will find a small town that stood within the walls. You can skip the castle or pay to enter. Just outside the castle turnstile is the tiny neighborhood. Wander up Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo (to the left as you exit the castle) and stroll into its back lanes making a clockwise loop back to where you started.
When you are ready to leave, go back to where you started and head down the ramp. On your way out, notice the little statue in the niche on your right. This is the castle namesake: St. George (Sao Jorge).
Exiting the castle complex grounds, stay left and walk along the wall then turn right down the second street, Travessa do Chao da Feira. Follow this striped lane downhill through Largo do Contador Mor. Continue downhill 50 yards further and then go right around the little church for a great viewpoint.
But for an even better city view, walk back around the church and walk out to the seaside end of the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. After taking in the views including seeing your cruise ship (if you arrived on a cruise) go down the long stairs that are located between the church and catwalk. A few steps down the stairs on the left, under a big arch, is a public WC.
Continue downhill and then turn left at the railing and go down more stairs. Explore from here, the main thoroughfare, a concrete stepped lane called Escadinhas de Sao Miguel, funnels you to the Alfama’s main square, Largo de Sao Miguel. This is a place where you can observe a slice of Alfama life. If you have time, explore the Alfama from this central square. The labyrinthine street plan was designed to frustrate invaders. Go ahead a get lost!
Continue exploring downhill from here. Turn left and follow Rua Sao Pedro out of the Alfama to the square called Largo do Chafariz de Dentre.
To get back to the cruise ship terminal, go left around the museum and cross the street.
Other Places to See in Lisbon:
The Torre de Belem or Tower of Belem is an iconic fortified tower sits just off the banks of the river at Belem. The tower was once a strategic defensive structure and gateway to the city of Lisbon.
Take a ride on the 28 line tram. There are actually a number of trams that run all over the city. Services run from around 6 am until 9 pm and you can purchase a ticket from the driver or a machine onboard. The tram goes between Alfama in the east and Praça do Martim Moniz in the west.
Have you visited Lisbon, Portugal?